1
00:01:24,500 --> 00:01:29,500
We have Rob Machado champion
American world.

2
00:01:29,500 --> 00:01:34,500
And probably the most universally
admired surfer.

3
00:01:38,500 --> 00:01:43,500
Emotions are simply amazing,
I don't know what to say, it's a dream.

4
00:01:44,500 --> 00:01:48,500
Something I have in
walls since 10 years

5
00:01:48,124 --> 00:01:51,966
and dreamed of what I just did
in Pipeline.

6
00:02:22,179 --> 00:02:25,093
Subtitles translated by F�bio David

7
00:02:29,500 --> 00:02:34,500
Stepping off the plane and Indonesia already enchants you,
the hot, humid air...

8
00:02:35,500 --> 00:02:37,500
coconut trees everywhere,

9
00:02:38,500 --> 00:02:42,500
motorcycles passing by, horns blaring
every few steps...

10
00:02:43,500 --> 00:02:47,500
but not because they are angry,
That's the only way you know they're there.

11
00:02:49,500 --> 00:02:56,500
Everyone wants to know where you are from
 �, where are you going, what is your name.

12
00:02:57,500 --> 00:03:02,500
In Indonesia, where you are apart
whose you are.

13
00:04:28,833 --> 00:04:32,028
I stayed on the World Tour
for more than 10 years.

14
00:04:32,134 --> 00:04:37,364
Japan, France, Australia,
Brazil...

15
00:04:38,094 --> 00:04:42,543
I needed to create a
"comfort zone", bringing home with me.

16
00:04:43,500 --> 00:04:47,141
 The same hotels, same restaurants,
 same surfspots...

17
00:04:49,264 --> 00:04:52,500
It's almost like I don't even
was traveling!

18
00:04:52,500 --> 00:04:55,372
That's why I'm here, to break
these “comfort zones”.

19
00:04:56,500 --> 00:04:59,500
Leave home behind and live day to day.

20
00:05:05,500 --> 00:05:08,500
Kelly called one day, wanted to surf
but I couldn't.

21
00:05:09,500 --> 00:05:11,500
I think everyone has heard
talk about him too...

22
00:05:13,500 --> 00:05:17,500
He has an incredible ability
to feel like you're surfing alone.

23
00:05:18,500 --> 00:05:21,500
Even when there is an abundance
of humans in the water.

24
00:05:22,500 --> 00:05:23,500
I, on the contrary,

25
00:05:23,500 --> 00:05:26,500
I can barely cope
with such situations!

26
00:06:07,457 --> 00:06:10,200
In many ways, this place
It's like any other.

27
00:06:10,500 --> 00:06:14,500
The surfing world moves like
a traveling circus.

28
00:06:15,500 --> 00:06:18,500
Come here to enjoy the right season
and will never stop coming.

29
00:06:19,500 --> 00:06:22,800
Could be Southern California
or North Shore.

30
00:06:28,186 --> 00:06:31,650
It's hard to believe I've come a long way
just to end where I started.

31
00:06:33,006 --> 00:06:35,160
Did I really come here for this?

32
00:07:14,291 --> 00:07:16,037
I don't really go out much,

33
00:07:16,526 --> 00:07:19,417
but here I feel aspirated
through social gatherings.

34
00:07:20,500 --> 00:07:24,056
The same people, the same stories,
same night...

35
00:07:27,500 --> 00:07:31,500
I don't know, a glass of wine and that's it!

36
00:07:36,500 --> 00:07:38,500
It's "dj� vu" again.

37
00:07:40,500 --> 00:07:45,500
Surfing is the only
thing that keeps me sane.

38
00:09:45,179 --> 00:09:47,633
I've been to Bali
for 3 weeks.

39
00:09:48,241 --> 00:09:52,691
The plan was to stay a day and
go explore other islands.

40
00:09:53,660 --> 00:09:58,039
I don't know exactly what happened,
But it's time to get back on track.

41
00:10:04,500 --> 00:10:11,500
At 15, I won the championship
junior at Huntington Beach.

42
00:10:12,500 --> 00:10:15,500
It was the greatest moment of my life so far
that point and my father could see it.

43
00:10:17,500 --> 00:10:21,500
Coming home, we stopped
and pointed to a nearby car.

44
00:10:22,500 --> 00:10:27,500
"You see these people," he said, "Do you think they
Do they mind that you just won the championship?"

45
00:10:28,500 --> 00:10:32,500
It took a while to understand
what he meant by that.

46
00:10:52,500 --> 00:10:56,500
I once read that what motivates man
It's living in the unknown.

47
00:11:01,500 --> 00:11:05,090
- It's hot, can you turn on the air?
- What?

48
00:11:05,500 --> 00:11:08,579
Do you put it on air? This is hot!

49
00:11:09,555 --> 00:11:11,351
"L-L-Locked.."

50
00:11:11,500 --> 00:11:13,032
-Off?
 �!

51
00:11:14,250 --> 00:11:20,096
All taxis in Bali do not have air.
Man, very hot!

52
00:11:25,500 --> 00:11:28,500
- Hey, what's your name?
- My name is Rob.

53
00:11:28,655 --> 00:11:30,066
- Rob? (...)

54
00:11:37,184 --> 00:11:38,669
Where did you come from?

55
00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:44,500
"Hello? California
-USA? -Yes...

56
00:11:45,500 --> 00:11:48,500
- It's the first time you've come to Bali, isn't it?
- No...

57
00:11:49,500 --> 00:11:54,500
-Do you want a massage?
Good massage here
in Bali, man!

58
00:11:55,500 --> 00:11:59,710
- Yes! Sometimes with a happy ending here.

59
00:12:00,286 --> 00:12:03,978
Always happy when you
finish the massage!

60
00:12:05,500 --> 00:12:08,500
"Hey mister!
- I just want to surf.

61
00:12:12,500 --> 00:12:15,305
- Just look at the waves...

62
00:12:15,764 --> 00:12:20,164
You can catch good waves in Indonesia
It's not just in Bali.

63
00:12:20,500 --> 00:12:23,500
Hey man, can you stop?
Stop, stop!

64
00:12:24,500 --> 00:12:28,500
This way?
Why? What happened?

65
00:12:31,500 --> 00:12:33,500
- The boss, thank you!

66
00:13:43,062 --> 00:13:49,500
Someone told me of a long and perfect left,
breaks far away and with no one near...

67
00:14:05,500 --> 00:14:08,500
Well, they're close...

68
00:15:53,500 --> 00:15:55,644
I put my tent up for some
privacy.

69
00:15:57,812 --> 00:15:59,194
Just trying to escape.

70
00:16:01,500 --> 00:16:04,500
It's a little like my little one
home away from home.

71
00:16:05,500 --> 00:16:09,500
And there, no one talks to me.

72
00:16:28,500 --> 00:16:32,500
There is a strange magic on the islands.

73
00:16:33,500 --> 00:16:36,500
Spiritual rollercoaster that
can make your head spin,

74
00:16:41,500 --> 00:16:43,500
but that comes to people.

75
00:18:33,500 --> 00:18:36,500
I never understood why people
Gather together to watch the sun disappear.

76
00:18:38,500 --> 00:18:43,500
There is so much more beauty in
see something that appears.

77
00:18:47,500 --> 00:18:52,500
It is difficult to develop as a person when
Your life is constantly under the microscope.

78
00:18:54,500 --> 00:18:57,500
It's important to disappear
Sometimes.

79
00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:10,500
I no longer know what I can do
call home,

80
00:20:11,500 --> 00:20:14,500
But if I had to choose, it would be the ocean...

81
00:20:16,500 --> 00:20:20,500
where I'm comfortable,
where I can be myself.

82
00:20:47,500 --> 00:20:49,778
hey, this is Rob's phone number...

83
00:20:50,273 --> 00:20:54,358
I don't know where I am now..
nobody knows...

84
00:20:54,973 --> 00:20:56,549
don't worry.

85
00:20:57,500 --> 00:21:01,500
Rob, we need you, I have deadlines
I need your answer.

86
00:23:09,500 --> 00:23:13,500
Hey, can you help me with my bike?
-Yes.

87
00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:24,700
her hair got caught in the belt.

88
00:23:26,500 --> 00:23:30,500
because how do Americans like that?

89
00:23:31,841 --> 00:23:33,331
Nothing on this bike is original.

90
00:23:35,309 --> 00:23:36,500
brakes. they don't go.

91
00:23:36,500 --> 00:23:41,000
the whole bike is broken.

92
00:23:56,500 --> 00:23:59,500
It looks like oil coming out...

93
00:24:01,671 --> 00:24:03,895
I don't know...

94
00:25:14,500 --> 00:25:16,500
Your bike, ready!

95
00:25:34,500 --> 00:25:37,500
I like to think there's a reason
when I meet people on the road.

96
00:25:38,500 --> 00:25:41,500
It seems like everyone has
something to convey.

97
00:25:42,500 --> 00:25:44,500
Something to learn from them.

98
00:27:56,500 --> 00:27:58,500
That's my bike!

99
00:28:47,500 --> 00:28:48,416
Do you speak English?

100
00:28:53,890 --> 00:28:57,262
Do you know where there is a
boat to go surfing?

101
00:28:57,263 --> 00:28:58,263
Are you kidding?

102
00:28:59,132 --> 00:29:01,114
If you were closer you would fall!

103
00:29:09,500 --> 00:29:11,500
My feet hurt.

104
00:29:12,422 --> 00:29:15,500
I can only think about
return to the water.

105
00:30:02,838 --> 00:30:08,500
Just one thing: my expectations
They are poor traveling companions.

106
00:30:19,500 --> 00:30:22,500
One day I decided to row
between these two islands.

107
00:30:24,859 --> 00:30:28,500
Halfway there and I was
too tired to continue.

108
00:30:29,500 --> 00:30:31,500
I stopped paddling and stayed there.

109
00:30:34,500 --> 00:30:37,500
I've never felt so insignificant
in my life.

110
00:30:39,500 --> 00:30:42,500
I wasn't sure if I
I would go back to that place.

111
00:30:49,500 --> 00:30:52,500
What's more, surfing is almost disappearing.

112
00:30:54,500 --> 00:30:57,500
I realized that if I didn't keep paddling
I would disappear too.

113
00:31:17,500 --> 00:31:20,500
Hello, do you speak English?
-Yes.

114
00:31:20,500 --> 00:31:24,500
I saw a bus outside, is there any
who takes me to the airport?

115
00:31:25,074 --> 00:31:27,500
-Airport? yes..

116
00:31:31,500 --> 00:31:35,500
Okay, enough money?
-Yes.

117
00:31:36,401 --> 00:31:36,954
Thanks.

118
00:31:46,500 --> 00:31:49,305
Hello, sir!
-Hey, how are you?

119
00:31:49,340 --> 00:31:52,500
Where are you from?
-California.

120
00:31:52,924 --> 00:31:56,500
-California?
-�, a good place. I should go.

121
00:31:56,500 --> 00:32:01,500
Mexican food, what I miss most, you know?

122
00:32:01,500 --> 00:32:06,500
There are those spicy things here, but not the same.

123
00:32:06,329 --> 00:32:07,852
Some time ago!

124
00:32:07,887 --> 00:32:09,500
It would be nice to go home.

125
00:32:12,500 --> 00:32:17,500
Arnold Schwarzenegger, Arnold, Arnold...
very good!

126
00:32:23,500 --> 00:32:27,500
Arnold Schwarzenegger!
Terminator 1! Terminator 2!

127
00:32:29,775 --> 00:32:32,096
OK!
-Arnold, yeah!

128
00:32:33,750 --> 00:32:39,500
I changed my mind, maybe I can go
to this island here.

129
00:32:42,500 --> 00:32:45,500
-Just change it? All good? OK thanks!

130
00:32:59,500 --> 00:33:02,500
Sometimes when you travel,
You must follow your instinct.

131
00:33:03,833 --> 00:33:09,500
I missed California, and I realized
that I haven't lost much,

132
00:33:09,500 --> 00:33:12,500
at least not yet.

133
00:35:40,500 --> 00:35:41,500
Yoohoo!

134
00:36:19,500 --> 00:36:22,500
It took me a while
to get here,

135
00:36:23,000 --> 00:36:25,500
But I found where I want to be.

136
00:36:29,500 --> 00:36:34,500
I'm alone, there are very few people
in the world that knows exactly where I am

137
00:36:37,500 --> 00:36:40,500
Not even I know exactly
where I am.

138
00:36:41,500 --> 00:36:44,500
There was a time when I wouldn't have
I liked being here.

139
00:36:47,500 --> 00:36:53,500
Things change. Here I am.
Board, backpack and a tent.

140
00:36:54,500 --> 00:36:56,500
Very far from civilization.

141
00:36:58,671 --> 00:37:01,688
In addition to
they usually call home.

142
00:38:08,515 --> 00:38:11,108
hey, this is Rob's phone number...

143
00:38:11,288 --> 00:38:15,179
I don't know where I am now..
nobody knows...

144
00:38:16,337 --> 00:38:18,127
don't worry.

145
00:38:18,500 --> 00:38:22,794
This is John Stansfield from U.S.Indonesia.

146
00:38:23,025 --> 00:38:26,618
I try to contact Robert Machado,

147
00:38:26,619 --> 00:38:32,457
I have your passport... lost or stolen...

148
00:38:32,458 --> 00:38:37,945
please contact us urgently, thank you.

149
00:38:45,500 --> 00:38:49,500
A few months ago I would have felt lonely.

150
00:38:52,500 --> 00:38:55,206
Sometimes, when you are very alone...

151
00:38:55,928 --> 00:38:59,092
It's not at all.

152
00:39:21,500 --> 00:39:23,752
He couldn't speak his language,

153
00:39:24,182 --> 00:39:26,382
but they told me to follow them.

154
00:40:46,950 --> 00:40:49,842
Here the children play a game with stones on the floor.

155
00:40:49,843 --> 00:40:54,403
Throw a stone in the air and
they catch another one before it falls.

156
00:40:55,500 --> 00:40:58,500
They keep doing this until
collect all the stones.

157
00:41:00,500 --> 00:41:05,110
I didn't know how to win,
maybe I wouldn't even win,

158
00:41:05,707 --> 00:41:08,500
maybe just play now
it was good enough.

159
00:44:01,717 --> 00:44:05,927
For some reason the locals felt
responsible for my safety.

160
00:44:07,611 --> 00:44:08,965
Go home, man!

161
00:44:12,463 --> 00:44:14,616
I am fine.
You can go home now.

162
00:44:16,500 --> 00:44:21,523
They left someone on duty
all night, very strange.

163
00:44:22,316 --> 00:44:26,500
I really don't know what could
happen in the middle of nowhere.

164
00:44:42,500 --> 00:44:44,989
I like this one... I do.

165
00:44:46,469 --> 00:44:49,082
Yeah, maybe go home?

166
00:44:50,109 --> 00:44:52,737
Yes, where is your home?

167
00:44:53,741 --> 00:44:54,995
House...

168
00:44:56,516 --> 00:44:59,208
Sleep, maybe with your family, I don't know...

169
00:44:59,886 --> 00:45:03,500
You don't need to stay anymore
Here, I'll be fine.

170
00:45:19,500 --> 00:45:22,384
Something drew me to the people of the village.

171
00:45:22,822 --> 00:45:25,471
So peaceful, so satisfied.

172
00:45:25,500 --> 00:45:28,500
I had to visit my new ones
friends for the last time.

173
00:45:31,500 --> 00:45:34,500
in winter, we cook inside...

174
00:45:34,500 --> 00:45:38,500
We sleep and make babies in there too!

175
00:45:42,500 --> 00:45:49,500
then on the roof we stock up, that?
corn, tapioca and rice.

176
00:45:49,500 --> 00:45:55,500
And keeps the animals below, live
in the middle and the food on top.

177
00:45:56,500 --> 00:46:02,500
Since I've been here I've noticed that people
they walk long distances to fetch water.

178
00:46:02,500 --> 00:46:09,500
from here to the well maybe 3 km
and maybe 3 or 4 times a day.

179
00:46:16,500 --> 00:46:19,500
"Tatu" told me they were
digging a well nearby.

180
00:46:21,500 --> 00:46:25,500
I had no doubt that people would go crazy
seeing a blackpower white

181
00:46:25,500 --> 00:46:28,500
Get there and start digging.

182
00:49:41,500 --> 00:49:43,845
They live in pure simplicity here,

183
00:49:45,776 --> 00:49:48,480
Even so, they do a lot...

184
00:50:09,500 --> 00:50:12,500
Surfing is a very
individualist.

185
00:50:12,500 --> 00:50:16,500
We surf because we feel good. And that's it.

186
00:50:18,500 --> 00:50:22,500
But, in search of the waves, sometimes,
You have the opportunity to give something in return.

187
00:50:24,500 --> 00:50:30,500
And somehow, don't ask, but somehow
way, it seems to make the next wave even better.

188
00:52:07,500 --> 00:52:10,500
Everything moves in cycles.

189
00:52:11,500 --> 00:52:15,500
I thought being isolated
I would have peace of mind.

190
00:52:18,500 --> 00:52:23,500
But now I realize it's the people around
we who add to our lives.

191
00:52:30,500 --> 00:52:32,716
We dream of the perfect wave,

192
00:52:33,275 --> 00:52:34,900
with the perfect job,

193
00:52:35,271 --> 00:52:36,966
with the perfect house,

194
00:52:38,705 --> 00:52:41,086
with perfect love.

195
00:52:42,500 --> 00:52:44,791
And when we got there...

196
00:52:47,046 --> 00:52:49,337
we dream of something more.

197
00:52:54,997 --> 00:52:58,226
This film is dedicated to my daughters Rose and Macy.

198
00:56:17,500 --> 00:56:20,312
hey, this is Rob's phone number...

199
00:56:20,563 --> 00:56:24,368
I don't know where I am now..
nobody knows...

200
00:56:24,369 --> 00:56:26,823
don't worry.


